I still could not think of what I want to eat this afternoon. My food tour yesterday has given me more than enough taste to the next few days. I was too brave to go on a food tour but nothing to be scared either.
I decided to join one of MVP summer tours when I was still in Ubud. I haven’t traveled out of Manila enough that I need to use any opportunity to just travel. And traveling with friends, old and new, is always nice! So I join the tour to Pampanga (about 80 km, 2 hours from Manila) yesterday.
It was quite a big group, 22 ladies and 1 gentleman. We rode a nice coach that had just enough seats for us. It’s nice. I sat by the President, my good friend once lived in Jakarta but we only got to know each other in Manila. I didn’t feeling well when left Manila but it’s nice to catch up with my mate in the two-hour trip.
First stop was the 16th century church of Bacolor that half-buried in lahar caused by the eruption of Mount Pinatubo in 1991. It was buried about 8 meters deep so the front door now was window of the choir loft above the was front door. From outside, the proportion of the building looks a bit out. The museum of the lahar is in the other room inside the church. I was mesmerized by the new building inside the old building. Some doors become so low that we have to duck to enter a room.
The next visit is the Betis Church nearby which was spared from the lahar flow. It was originally built in the 17th century and restored in the 18th century. It has beautiful paintings on the ceiling and in contrast to most century-old churches the floor is made of wood. It has been named a National Cultural Treasure.
After a quick visit to the churches, we went 30 minutes away to the highlight of the tour. 10 (or more)-course lunch at Bale Dutung owned by artist/chef Tayag. I liked the place at first sight! I love wood and art out of recycled things. Perfect! The artist grew passion for cooking only lately that now he enjoys producing food to sell (pure crab fat, fermented shrimp rice, vinegar, etc.) and open his house-cum-studio for people to taste Pampanga cuisine (their local).
His wife is a really good guide for the food tour. She gave introduction of the food we’re going to experience before each course. She guided our taste buds by explaining the difference of, say, with or without vinegar or with or without chili. Before the next course, she asked about our greater liking for the option over another. She also asked us to compare Pampanga cuisine with other local cuisine like Indonesia. There were at least 10 nationalities at the table so the discussion was fun!
After the fourth course, I lost track. After the fifth, the host-cum-food-tour-guide distributed frozen rolled hand towels for the aircon. It was hot though airy in the silong (space below the house; ground floor) where we sat. She showed us what to do with that frozen hand towel on our President. She rubbed the rolled towel on face, neck, head, and made a stop at eyes, ears, and temples. We followed the example at once. We had fun playing with the cold towel. We’re not supposed to unroll it so the temperature can stay for two hours. It’s impossible to unroll either since the water is frozen. It’s a brilliant idea to cool down the body temperature!
Each course was in small portion that is good. After the seventh, the host announced that’s the end of the appetizer. We’re not there yet? We’re looking at each other curious of what would be the next because the challenge had been growing. The host staged the taste from simple to more intricate so by the end of the tour our taste buds are full already. She guaranteed we would not want to repeat the course after the dessert, if we want, the food would be free of charge!
The first main course was pork floss served a la Peking Duck with thin pancake (like pita bread) and spring onion and spicy sauce. I had very little to taste. The second main course was interesting. Guava soup served with steamed veggies and chilies and king prawns. Eat with banana leaf-wrapped rice. I liked the soup so much that heard even Mr. Bourdain was amazed. It tasted like guava with mushroom soup texture. Perfect! I skipped the last main course totally. It’s clam and other seafood that looked greasy.
I looked forward to having the dessert. We got an extra dessert because of our tour guide, Tibok-tibok made of carabao milk. The main dessert was wow… It took us to Paradiso before the coffee. Four and a half hours past. We were being two-hour late to leave Angeles City to Manila. We were stuck in the after-office-hour traffic after the toll road. I was half in the air already. I got headache! My system protested. Having been on lean diet for so long, my system didn’t endorse greasy and high cholesterol food. Or, my taste buds have been simplified by the diet that it needs to be adjusted?
Got home I feel rich not just in taste buds…
PS: I am now reading Tayag's culinary journal Food Tour. It shows the wonderful life of the couple as food lover and lovers.
The Church of Bacolor.